By Esther Klijn, Award-Winning Luxury Travel Planner and Honeymoon Travel Agent
When you think of Lapland, you probably picture blankets of snow and reindeer-drawn sleighs gliding through pine forests. But in September, Finland’s Arctic north tells a completely different story. The air is cool and clean, the birch trees shimmer in gold, and the landscape hums with quiet energy. I just returned from Balder Luxury Lodge in Levi, where autumn revealed a softer, more soulful side of the Arctic.
Where I Stayed
I checked into Balder Luxury Lodge, a serene hideaway surrounded by rolling hills and rustling forests. The property was so new I was among its very first guests, yet everything felt effortlessly polished. Suites are modern but deeply comforting, with fireplaces, natural textures, and panoramic views that invite you to slow down and breathe in the silence.
The team at Balder has mastered what Finns do best: understated hospitality that feels personal, not performative. From the moment I arrived, it felt like staying at a friend’s private retreat; one with impeccable design and a chef who could easily hold his own in any culinary capital.
What I Did
Days at Balder unfold gently, with a rhythm set by nature. One morning I hiked along a nearby river trail, the air crisp and pine-scented. A few reindeer wandered across the path, completely unbothered by my awe. It was one of those moments that felt both wild and intimate, like stepping into a Nordic folk tale.
In the evenings, I set out to chase the Northern Lights, following my guide into the open wilderness. Without winter snow to brighten the ground, the sky felt darker and deeper, making the colors even more vivid. When the first green ribbons began to shimmer overhead, conversation stopped entirely. All I could do was stare and smile.
What I Loved
If the landscapes steal your breath, the cuisine at Balder Luxury Lodge will win your heart. Chef Antti Malinen brings extraordinary creativity to every meal. One night I had humble salmon soup. Another night, a hearty reindeer stew that was rich and earthy. The next evening, he improvised vegetarian dishes on the spot: roasted cauliflower and a creamy mushroom risotto that were as flavorful as they were unexpected.
Each course came with thoughtfully chosen wine pairings and the local Finnish beers. The crisp lager and a rare small-batch IPA, were an unexpected delight. Meals here are never rushed; they feel like slow, sensory celebrations of Lapland itself.
Pro Tip
I experienced Lapland in autumn, when birch leaves burnished to gold and evenings glowed with firelight. Many travelers chase the holiday magic of December, but the quiet brilliance of March is Lapland’s best-kept secret: longer days, pristine snow, and the aurora at its most radiant.
Put Finnish Lapland on Your List
Balder Luxury Lodge is the kind of place that reawakens your senses. The stillness and the warmth of the people make it unlike anywhere else. Whether you come for the aurora, the sauna, or the simple joy of breathing Arctic air, Lapland rewards you with something deeper: a sense of peace that lingers long after you’ve gone home.
A heartfelt THANK YOU to Viktoria Hurri, Khrystyna Diatchuk, Alex Sirota, and Raivis Aire for hosting me on this incredible trip.
CIRE Travel is a full-service travel agency headquartered in New York, NY with offices in Kennebunkport, ME, Washington DC, Boston, MA, Miami, FL, Los Angeles, CA, Philadelphia, PA, Toronto, ON, Bogota, Colombia, Madrid, Spain, London, UK, Mexico City, Mexico, and Vancouver, BC. Our expert corporate travel planners, honeymoon travel agents, and luxury travel planners support clients across the country and around the world.
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