How Three Generations Traveled to the Top of the World

By Ella Edwards, CIRE Summer Intern

Spanning three generations and 60 years in age difference, my grandfather, mother, and I recently ventured to the Arctic, to what can only be described as the edge of the map. When they proposed spending ten days in Svalbard on an expedition cruise, my immediate thought was “where even is that?” As it turns out, Svalbard is a Norwegian archipelago in the Arctic Circle, quite literally at the top of the world. Rolling fjords, turquoise glaciers, and captivating wildlife make up the land, and what is even more impressive is the sea that surrounds it all. As a rising college junior, I never thought my summer plans would involve an expedition to the High Arctic alongside my mom and grandfather. The unique location, the broad age range of our family group, and the fact that the Arctic is icy and cold even in the summer months inspired both curiosity and a bit of disbelief among friends and family.

How to Prepare for a Quark Expedition to the Arctic

How does one prepare for the Arctic? The answer is with a lot of planning and coordination. In our case, we started planning over a year ahead to secure the best itinerary, dates, and cabins. Luckily, with the expertise of CIRE Travel and their partners at Quark Expeditions, a leading operator of polar travel, booking flights and coordinating logistics became remarkably straightforward. Our itinerary took us from D.C. to London to Helsinki before arriving in Longyearbyen, the main settlement of Svalbard. Other aspects, like packing, required some more hands-on preparation. As imagined, essential items include warm base layers, waterproof pants, a hat, polarized sunglasses, and thick socks. Quark provides waterproof parkas and boots to keep you comfortable during outings, so you don’t need to bring bulky outerwear. Casual clothes such as jeans and fleeces work well for time spent onboard, and be sure to bring a swimsuit for the sauna or polar plunge. For our 10-day expedition, my mother and I managed to pack everything into carry ons, something that amazed just about everyone on board. As usual with my mom, everything is organized and efficient, without losing practicality, whereas I wanted to pack “just in case” items. As it turns out, you really don’t need as much as you think. Once you’re packed and en route, the adventure begins the moment you step aboard the ship.

Life on Board Quark’s Ultramarine

There is a perfect balance of comfort and adventure on board the Ultramarine, one of Quark’s polar expedition ships. Cabins are spacious with floor to ceiling windows and heated bathroom floors, but these same windows frame a vast and wild landscape. The hospitality is warm and personalized, making the ship feel like a community rather than a floating hotel. Within a few days, the guides knew us by name, and the atmosphere was rooted in mutual admiration of the landscapes and a desire to explore. Even the daily routine reflects this blend of comfort and adventure. Quark makes logistics smooth. Luggage arrives in your room before you do, gear is fitted on day one, and excursions are efficiently scheduled. But each outing reminds you how remote you really are. Whether kayaking through drifting ice or boarding a Zodiac in a flurry of snow, the ship’s “Ready Rooms,” holding all your gear for the day, mark the transition from comfort to cold.

Onboard, there is no shortage of spaces to eat and unwind. The Balena Restaurant offers elegant, three-course dinners that feel worlds away from the ice floating outside. By day, the restaurant is an artfully presented buffet space featuring carefully selected and freshly prepared dishes. The impeccable service and refined ambiance elevate each meal into a memorable experience. For something more casual, their Bistro 487 serves a diverse selection of international dishes all day, ideal after a windswept morning on the water. Nearby, the Panorama Lounge is likewise a warm contrast to the cold, with 360 views, endless seating, and a half moon bar. The lounge and accompanying library are the kind of places where you’ll dry off after a Zodiac ride and warm up over a book, a drink, or a wildlife sighting through binoculars, making it the perfect complement to the ship’s dining venues.

Exploring the Arctic: Wildlife, Excursions, and Highlights

There is a clear rhythm to each day onboard. Expeditions run twice a day, once in the morning after breakfast, and again after lunch. Each morning starts with an update from the Expedition Leader, letting us know where we’ve traveled overnight, what conditions to expect, and what wildlife might be nearby. It is both exciting and oddly humbling to start your day with a reminder that polar bears are roaming in the area.

Excursions vary per day due to weather, and may include sea kayaking, zodiac cruising, hiking, or wildlife sightings. Some days we hiked across the Arctic tundra, kayaked alongside glaciers, and cruised on Zodiacs to explore towering fjords, bird cliffs, or walrus haul-outs, where large groups of these creatures gather onshore to rest and bask in the Arctic sun. Each outing brought something hidden to the untrained eye. Different landscapes, changing weather and light, or a surprise polar bear evacuation. When onboard scouts spotted polar bears nearby, we were gently guided back to the ship to ensure a safe and respectful distance. From there, we gathered on the decks to watch these impressive bears from afar, all of us captivated by the rare spectacle. Hidden throughout the barren land are remnants of human life. We explored old trapper huts, the framework of an old mining camp, and tried to imagine what it would be like to live in such an exposed and raw place.

Wildlife is the main draw of a trip like this, and we were far from disappointed. We spotted polar bears, walrus, seals, arctic foxes, and countless seabirds, including puffins and guillemots. All were iconic in their own sense, and it is a rarity to be able to witness animals in such an untamed, untouched environment. Certain moments stick with you. For me, it was a curious harbor seal that circled our kayaking group, surfacing every minute or so to look inquisitively at each of us. It took a particular interest in my rudder and gave it a few nibbles, as my mom likely gripped her paddle, silently hoping I wouldn’t end up in the water. Times like these were made all the more special by the guides, who were not only incredible at identifying the animals from afar, but could tell you an infinitely long list of fun and interesting facts about each.

While the Arctic and its many sights offer maximum adventure, downtime on board is just as inviting. Guests can unwind in the spa, sauna, or steam room, get in a workout at the gym, or curl up in the library with a good book. While many choose to unplug, Wi-Fi packages are available for those who want to stay connected. The ship’s IRL social spaces, like the bars and lounges, are great places to meet fellow travelers from all over. There are solo travelers, couples, families, and retirees. I was among the younger passengers, though the youngest was an eleven year-old who seemed incredibly at ease in the Arctic environment. The majority of travelers were in their fifties and sixties, equally eager about discovering a new and unfamiliar place. It’s rare to find a trip that draws such a diverse group of travelers across many generations, and all were bonded by a shared sense of curiosity for a vastly unknown location.

Not much beats the standout moments woven into your Quark journey, such as jumping into the Arctic Ocean during the polar plunge, watching a glacier calve right in front of you, or celebrating the summer solstice in 24 hours of daylight. I dove in headfirst for the plunge, momentarily forgetting that my strapless bathing suit was not made for diving. It was absolutely freezing, but completely worth it, and I now understand the importance of secure swimwear. In the evenings, we gathered in the Ambassador Theater, a large screening room, for daily recaps, science talks, and storytelling. These “Bar Talks” from the expedition team, where complimentary wine and beer are served, deepen your understanding of the area’s wildlife, history, and conservation efforts. The shared wonder over what everyone has seen just hours earlier never fails to end the day beautifully.

Why a Trip to Svalbard Works for Every Generation

One of the best things about this expedition is how easily it can be tailored to different interests, ages, and energy levels. At 21, I loved the independence that came with kayaking. The ability to take out a single kayak, surrounded by ice, mountains, and curious seals, was remarkable. My mother is an avid photographer and was often found on deck with her camera, capturing the landscape and wildlife, or admiring the photographs shared by the onboard photography guide. My grandfather found pleasure in the daily hikes, his spacious one person cabin, and of course, the endless dining options. Whether you’re bringing kids, parents, grandkids, or the entire family, each person will have their own memorable highlights, while all will certainly share a deep admiration for the trip as a whole.

Sharing this Arctic expedition with my mom and grandfather added a depth to my expedition that no amount of dramatic scenery could match. Having already journeyed to Antarctica together, my mom and grandfather set a high bar for polar adventure in the family. Now, inspired by their stories and the beauty I witnessed in the north, I find myself incredibly drawn to explore the southernmost pole as well. I have been fortunate enough to visit 58 countries across six continents, but few trips will stay with me like this one. The Arctic stands apart not just for its bucket list value, but more for the moments of awe and vivid insights that quietly reshape how I see the world after returning home. With two important family members to reflect on this with as I grow older, it serves as a reminder that the most meaningful travel comes not only from the places you visit, but from the unique experiences shared with those who travel alongside you. Perhaps in the next few years, I will be exploring Antarctica, if I can convince my grandfather that the poles are worth visiting twice!

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